Ben Gilmore

NOTE: Scroll down for photos

Climbing Experience:

Alaska: 10 expeditions, 2000 - 2007

• Mt Hunter: Moonflower Buttress attempt, 21 pitches, VI WI6; Wall of Shadows, 2nd ascent, VI 5.9A1WI6 w/ Kevin Mahoney; French Couloir attempt.
• Denali: Slovak Route (aka Czech Direct), 2nd ascent, VI 5.9A2WI6 w/ Mahoney; Common Knowledge, first ascent on the Washburn Face, VI WI6R, 26 hrs w/ Kevin Mahoney and Bruce Miller.
• Moose’s Tooth: Arctic Rage, first ascent, VI WI6+RA2 w/ Mahoney; SE Face, first ascent, VI 5.9A3WI6 w/ Kevin Mahoney and Steve House.
• Mt Dickey: Snow Patrol, 2nd ascent, VI WI5+ w/ Freddie Wilkinson and Owen Samuel.
• The Fin: The Fin Wall, first ascent, VI NEI 5+mixed, 26 hrs w/ Freddie Wilkinson and Peter Ducette.
• Mantok Group: All Talk Couloir, first ascent, IV M5 WI4, 12 hrs w/ Freddie Wilkinson and Peter Ducette.

Patagonia, Argentina:

• Aguja De La S: West Ridge, Dec. 2007
• Cerro Torre: Compressor Route, 30 hrs, Dec. 2004
• Fitzroy: N Pillar Casarotto Route, first ascent variation Diedro Directo, VI 5.10 A3, Feb. 2000

Chile:

• Torres del Paine National Park: Torre Norte via Monzino Route, V 5.10, Jan. 2000

India:

• Thalay Sagar Expedition: Attempted a new route on the north face. April/May 2003

Newfoundland:

• Blow Me Down Wall: FA Weightin’ For That Train, first ascent, V 5.10 A4, Sept. 1996

Canadian Rockies:

• Sea of Vapors, WI6
• Nemesis, WI6
• Kitty Hawk, WI5
• Polar Circus, WI5
• Weeping Pillar, WI6
• Mt. Chephren attempt-The Wild Thing w/ first ascent of a direct start variation. VI M6+ A0 WI5+

Yosemite:

• El Capitan: Lost in America, South Seas/PO Wall, Triple Direct
• Leaning Tower: West Face
• Washington Column: South Face, The Prow

Wyoming:

• Grand Teton
• Middle Teton
• Death Canyon: The Snaz, Caveat Emptor
• Gannet Peak: Gooseneck Ridge, South Couloir
• Elephant Head
• Fremont Peak
• Cirque of the Towers
• Sinks Canyon
• Wild Iris
• Vedauwooo
• Split Rock

Washington:

• Mt. Rainier: Liberty Ridge, Emmons Glacier,
• Mt Baker: numerous routes
• Glacier Peak: Frostbite Ridge
• Eldorado Peak
• Forbidden Peak: West Ridge III 5.7
• Prussik Peak: South Face IV 5.9
• Mt. Slesse: NE Buttress V 5.9
• Liberty Bell: Liberty Crack V 5.10 A2, Thin Red Line V 5.9 A3
• Mt. Stuart: N Ridge V 5.10
• Mt. Combatant: Solo Blue, first ascent, V 5.7 A3
• Mt Hickson: N Face V 5.8 A1 AI4

Bugaboos:

• McTech Arete III 5.10a
• Wildflowers IV 5.9
• NE Ridge, Bugaboo Spire IV 5.7

Red Rocks:

• Levitation 29, 5.11
• Mountain Beast, 5.11a
• Cloud Tower, 5.12a
• Eagle Dance, 5.10
• Resolution Arete, 5.11
• Dream of Mountain Woman, 5.11
• Epinephrine, 5.9
• Prince of Darkness, 5.10

Joshua Tree:

• Hot Rocks, 5.10d,
• Illusion Dweller, 5.10b,
• Fisticuffs, 5.10c,
• Clean and Jerk, 5.10c,
• Imaginary Voyage, 5.10d,
• Left Ski Track, 5.11a
• And hundreds of other routes

New Hampshire:

• Cathedral Ledge: Repentance, NEI5; Remission w/ direct start, NEI5+; Cathedral Direct, 5.10 WI5+; Diedre, 5.9 WI5+; Dresden, M6
• Whitehorse Ledge: Myth of Sisyphus, WI5 M5
• Cannon Cliff: Prozac, first ascent, M6WI6; Mean Streak, M7WI6; Black Dike, WI5
• Trollville: Diaper Rash, M7; Purple People Eater, M6
• Slander Crag: Poached Eggs, M7+; Patty Gonzales, M7; Pinhead, M7
• Mt Willard: Corkscrew Pillar, WI5; Zig Pig, first ascent, M5; Peace of Mind, M5
• Frankenstein: Bragg/Pheasant, WI5; Dropline, WI5; Welcome To the Machine, WI5
• Humphrey’s Ledge: Soul Survivor, M6

Vermont:

Lake Willoughby: Kryosonics, first ascent, FA M7+ RNEI5R; Promenade, WI5; Last Gentlemen, WI5

As well as numerous routes at:

• Leavenworth
• Vantage
• Tieton River
• Index
• Exit 38
• Mt Erie
• Smith Rock
• Squamish
• Skaha
• Acadia National Park

Grants/Awards:

• 2008 Mugs Stump Award – N Face Kangtega, Nepal
• 2007 Mugs Stump Award – Fin Wall, AK
• 2004 Piolet d’Or Nominee – Arctic Rage, AK
• 2004 Climbing Magazine Golden Piton Award - Arctic Rage, AK
• 2004 Mugs Stump Award – E Face Moose’s Tooth, AK
• 2003 Lyman Spitzer Award – N Face Thalay Sagar, India
• 2003 Alpinist B-Team Grant – N Face Thalay Sagar, India
• AAC Fellowship Grant 1996 – Blow Me Down, Newfoundland
• NOLS Instructor Development Grants in 1999, 2000, 2001


Media Coverage:

Magazine Articles:

• Rock and Ice #162 – Breaking News, “No Man’s Land” p. 34
• Desnivel #229 – “La Furia de Alaska” p. 30-36
• Climbing #239 – “Golden Piton Awards” p. 44
• Rock and Ice #142 – “Currently Killing It” p. 92
• Alpinist 8 – “Arctic Rage” pp. 65-71
• Alpinist 4 – “The Mooses Tooth” p. 23
• Alpinist 5 – “Fitzroy” pg. 22
• Rock and Ice #102 - “Kahiltna Spotlight” pp. 38-39
• Rock and Ice #110 - “Cliffnotes” p. 24
• Rock and Ice #111 - “Alaska 2001: The Players” p. 69
• Rock and Ice #113 - “Fast and Light” pp.68-69
• Climbing #198 - “Wild Alaska” pp. 36-37
• Climbing #200 - “Moose Hunting” p. 34
• High Mountain #215

Journals:

• AAJ 2004 feature article, Arctic Rage pp.24-31
• AAJ 2004 pp.186-187
• AAJ 2001 pp.197-198
• AAJ 2002 “Walls in Shadow” pp.108-115

Websites:

• http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-kryosonics-willoughby-mahoney-gilmore
• http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/wildalaskanwall/
• http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-fin-alaska-wilkinson
• http://www.climbing.com/news/newmooseto/
• http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?+=68328
• http://www.alpinist.com/climbing-grants/2003-recips.php
• http://www.alpinist.com/climbing-grants/Thalay-Sagar.php
• http://climb.mountainzone.com/2000/fitzroy/html/

Guiding Experience: Full-time guide since 1994

Guide:

• Exum Mountain Guides, Tetons, WY, since 2004
• Alaska Mountaineering School, Talkeetna, Alaska. Guided Ham and Eggs on Moose’s Tooth, 4/06
• International Mountain Climbing School, North Conway, NH; winters since 1999
• Alpine Ascents International, Seattle, WA, 2002-2005. Guided Ham and Eggs on Moose’s Tooth and N Ridge of Mt Blackburn, Alaska 2004
• Atlantic Climbing School, Bar Harbor, Maine; 1999, 2000, 2006, 2007

NOLS Instructor:

• Senior Staff Level 3 from 1994-2003: 175 field weeks leading 14-32 day mountaineering and rock climbing courses.
• Mountaineering courses in Wyoming, North Cascades, Waddington Range, Alaska (Denali ’01 Muldrow/Harper Glacier route, Chugach, Wrangells - Mt Blackburn)
• Rock climbing courses at Mt. Lemmon, Cochise Stronghold, Santa Teresas, Leavenworth, Squamish, and Smith Rock

Certifications/ Training:

• AMGA Certified Alpine and Rock Guide
• WFR: Current. CPR: Current
• AIARE Level 3 Avalanche: January 2004
• AMGA Advanced Alpine Guides Course: 10 days, May 2004
• Guide Training with Tom Hargis: 3 days, February 2004
• Exum Guide Training: 2 days, June 2005, 2007
• NOLS Winter Instructor Training: 10 days, February 1997
• NOLS Level 2 Avalanche: February 1997
• NOLS Mountaineering Training: 10 days, May 1994
• Spanish language: functional; 4 yrs. in high school, 2 trips to Mexico, 3 trips to Argentina, and one to Chile

Education:

• College of the Atlantic: B.A. in Human Ecology with focus on Outdoor Education, Bar Harbor ME, 1993
• NOLS: Instructor Course, August 1993
• NOLS: Wind River Mountaineering Course, July 1992
• Sonoma Valley High School: Sonoma, CA